Fearing that his expedition might falter before it even started, an enraged Hideyoshi declared fugu prohibited - once and for all. They caught a lot of fugu and cut them up with their unskilled hands, puncturing the poisonous inner organs. While waiting for more troops to arrive in Shimonoseki, the starting point of this conquest, they had a bit too much time on their hands and went out to the sea to catch fish - just like they had seen the locals doing. Many of his soldiers were from the mountains and didn't know much about fish. Having conquered all of Western Japan, Hideyoshi set out to take over Korea. Help came eventually from Shogun Toyotomi Hideyoshi who in his conquests to unify Japan, sided with Sorin and with his help brought the various southern daimyo (feudal lords) under his rule. But the Christian god didn't seem to be on his side - he lost his castle to the enemy. Having received the first Portuguese missionary to ever show up on Japanese shores, Francisco Xavier, Sorin had converted to Christianity. It's a good place to ruminate a bit about the history of both the fish and Usuki.įrom here, in the mid-1500's, Usuki daimyo Otomo Sorin sent his samurai out to fight neighboring clans. Though it's not exactly spectacular, you get a good view of the harbor and out to the sea from there. Don't miss the ruin of Usuki Castle close to the city center. Go to the historic samurai area, visit the beautiful Ryugenji pagoda, pedal through the quiet, ancient streets. He will give you the key for one of the yellow tourist bikes they keep there. Ask the ticket seller at the train station for a free bicycle. Usuki is famous for its real ancient stone Buddha sculpturesīut before you entrust your life to the cook, you might want to do some sightseeing. Stone Buddha replica in front of Usuki Station. There are plenty of restaurants operating on levels between these extremes - this small town is home to more than 20 fugu eateries. Usuki is a beautiful old samurai castle town, where whole areas have survived almost unscathed from the Edo times or even before and it offers a variety of fugu restaurants that ranges from the exclusive: the Yamadaya whose Tokyo branch has three Michelin stars (and that's only the Tokyo outlet!) to pretty basic lunchtime specials where you can have an easy but still quite enjoyable fugu lunch for about 3000 yen. One perfect destination might be Usuki in Oita Prefecture. The fugu is a creature of the south of Japan and you should head in this direction for a fine fugu meal. There are ways and places to enjoy even the potentially most deadly parts of the fish in (near) perfect safety and without burning a hole in your pocket - especially in winter, the traditional season for the fish. Others are just afraid of the tab - fugu doesn't come cheap.įear not. Fugu, the fabled poisonous blowfish, still manages to scare a lot of people off from even trying its fabulous taste.
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